One feature of GridIron Flow I’ve seen people really go nuts for is its ability to "roll back" a Photoshop document to a previous version. (Flow creates versions automatically.) I think the reason for this enthusiasm is the numerous ways in which you can inadvertently "harm" a Photoshop file - permanently altering (or deleting) data. Sometimes, this is intentional, but occasionally it’s just a byproduct of the creative process.
Here are my top "gotchas" in Photoshop and how you can avoid them. (Even if you don’t avoid them, Flow can get the data back for you.)
1. Flattening the document
People seem to think that they need to flatten a file before saving it as a JPEG or another "flat" file format. Photoshop is actually pretty smart about this. If you choose "Save as", and you choose a format other than TIFF or PSD, Photoshop knows that you’re saving a COPY of the file. It will, when creating the export file, flatten a copy of the document and save it out leaving your original in all its multi-layered glory.
2. Resizing a document for the web
Hopefully, this isn’t as much of a "bad habit" as it used to be, but I’m amazed at how many people still resize their SOURCE Photoshop file, save a JPEG copy of it, and then simply don’t save the resized results. This is pretty dangerous; if you step away for a minute (or for lunch), you could easily come back and save over your original data. Provided you don’t close the document, you can still "undo" the resize, save the file, and restore the data.
Instead, if you’re resizing a file to create a smaller JPEG for the web or for emailing, use the Save for Web command. It may complain that your file is too big, yadda yadda, but doesn’t crash like it used to. On the right size of the SFW window is a "Resize Image" function (this changed a bit between CS3 and CS4). It’s important to note that Save for Web assumes you want to save a COPY of the file for the web. Hence, nothing you do in this window affects the original document. If you enter a resizing value of, say, 600×600, Photoshop will resize the image so that the longest dimension (width for landscape, height for portrait) is 600 pixels. Then, you can save out this copy of the file without risking harm to the source.
3. Merging two (or more) layers.
There are times when you need two layers to become one for various reasons. This is another situation where you are deleting data, so the goal is to preserve the original information while creating a single layer on which to work.
Rather than merging the layers to each other, you can merge two layers to a third; achieving what you wanted, but still maintaining the original data.
To merge two layers, make those two layers visible and hide the other layers.
Then, create a blank layer.
With the blank layer selected - hold down the Option key (Mac) or Alt key (Windows) and choose "Merge vislble"
Photoshop will merge the two layers into the blank layer. If you’re merging a large number of layers, you can place the originals in a group (Folder) and then close the folder so you only see the folder layer and the merged layer you created.
4. Rotating a layer or image
When resizing an image, it’s possible to leave a certain precentage of the original pixels intact if the scaling percentage is very small; say, 1-5 percent or so. Likewise, if you rotate an image just slightly, you aren’t affecting a majority of the pixels very much.
But we only occasionally tend to scale or rotate an image in such subtle ways. It’s usually a bit more dramatic. In those cases, every single pixel in the document is modified. If the information is placed as a smart object, all of the original data is still intact. If not, it’s… not.
In those instances, rotation or resizing is a permanent change to th file (once it’s saved). And, if you scaled the wrong layer or simply change your mind about the design, you need to go back to the original document and recreate the layer - a tedious (and sometimes impossible) task.
The biggest defense I’ve already mentioned - convert a layer you plan to modify into a Smart Object. You can alwas double-click the layer to edit the contents. If you forgot to make it a smart object, GridIron Flow can let you revert back to a previous version with the layer intact, save a copy of that document, and you can drag and drop a replacement layer in.
5. Rasterizing Type / Converting Type to Outlines
Lots of workarounds for these; the most obvious is "If you need to rasterize/outline type, duplicate the layer FIRST, and rasterize/outline the duplicated layer." But it’s really easy to rasterize/outline type "just for a second/to try something" and head a bit too far down a design path from which you can’t backtrack.
The loss is actually two-fold - 1. You’ll need to spend time resetting type, including leading/tracking/kerning tweaks and 2. Photoshop "forgets" what font was used to create that layer. If you need to come back a year later and edit or recreate the file, you need to first figure out of that font is Galliard or Garamond.
Here again, Flow would let you go back a version or three and grab either the type layer from it, or information about that typeface.
6. What RAW file did this come from?
RAW files can be placed in Photoshop as Smart Objects allowing, at any time further down the process, you to go back and edit the RAW adjustments performed on it.
Again, this requires forethought and is (ironically) not the way Photoshop assumes you want to work. (Placing another file within a Photoshop document does default to being a Smart Object.)
If you’re more of a copy/paste kind of person, it’s pretty easy to lose track of which RAW file EXACTLY was the source of a layer in a Photoshop file. Photoshop keeps no record of which file it was, and the RAW file has no knowledge of where it has been used.
Flow will track the relationship between the RAW document, any other files into which it was copy/pasted, and any resulting JPEG files created from it. In short, you have a "bread crumb" path of where a raw file has gone.